I apologize for the length of this post, but this is, after all, our journal of a marvelous trip. There was so much to see and do, and such a short time to do it. So get a cup of coffee, and come and enjoy Bordeaux with us.
Michael:
Well, that's it … I am moving to Bordeaux! This is my new favorite city in the world. A beautiful place, 7,000 wineries, mouth-watering food, pretty good weather and every other diversion known to man. What more could you want? Now, all I have to do is get residency, learn French, and double my retirement income so I can afford to live in this very expensive city, but as soon as I do …..
All kidding aside, this is a fabulous place, and I just wrapped up a wonderful and memorable day here. I began by escorting yet another tour. This started with an overview of the city via coach, and then a trip south to Martillac for, yep, another wine tour. Bordeaux is a big city, with about one million people. It is clean, modern, vibrant, colorful and just fun, and to think most of this happened over the last ten years under new municipal supervision.
Our wine tour was to Chateau LaTour Martillac, which is in the Graves district, no more than 15 or so miles south of Bordeaux. We toured the vineyard, including the cellar, and then tasted a white (mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a little Semillon), and then a superb red – Grand Cru Classe De Graves Pessac-Leognan, a 2004. This I wanted more of! It was then back to the ship for lunch, a quick rest, and then on to a self-guided walking tour of Bordeaux.
I must have covered five miles this afternoon, but it was worth it. I walked first to the Place de la Bourse, (a palace) and did so via the brand new and gigantic “Water Mirror,” which is about an acre in size, and emits atomized water, so you are strolling though what looks like a steam bath, but is actually cool. It is a very nice effect. I next passed by one of the two original city gates, and then to Basillique St. Michel. I expected to find an old church but instead found myself in the middle of the Muslim community’s largest shuq. Man, I am, glad it was daytime!
I navigated my way out of this and up to the Place de la Victorie. You know, France has many of these “victory” places, all built in anticipation of celebrating the successful culmination of various wars. However, since France has yet to win a single war, most of them are still in brand new condition. Just kidding (sort of)!! Anyway, this location is notable as it is the start of the longest (1.2 km) pedestrian-only shopping street in all of Europe, and whoa, was it busy. I walked along this street (Rue Saint Catherine) all the way to the Cathedrale in Place Pey-Berland. Now, this one was a church, and it was beautiful. It was built in the 12th century and is comparable to Notre Dame.
I was starting to wear out about now, but summoned up the strength to continue on to another Palace, the Palais Rohan, which is now a hotel, and (since it was Saturday) watched about a half dozen outdoor weddings in progress. I was now in the ultra chic and ultra expensive shopping district and continued on Rue Bouffard to the second of the original city gates. From here it was a short walk to the Place des Brands Hommes, a great big shopping mall.
I headed east, back toward the ship -- but the best was yet to come. I found the Place de las Comedie, Bordeaux’s new opera house, which is right across the street from the Regent hotel (yes, the same as the cruise line), which is the city’s finest. My last stop was the Monument aux Girondins which boasts about the most incredible fountain I have seen since Rome. Okay, that was just a few days ago, but it was simply incredible. From here it was back to the ship, and (yeh) cocktail hour!! I am writing this while waiting for Beverly who is escorting a tour to St-Emilion. I don’t know what’s there, but it is on the list of the “1,000 places you must see before you die.”
Beverly:
Ach, the French spelling is getting to me. The French pronunciation sounds like they have marbles in the mouth. We are not moving to France. While Bordeaux is indeed a grand city, I got to see something you would never in a million years see – an underground church.
I journeyed to the medieval town of St.-Emilion, which is the REAL old world France, and is UNESCO-classified as a heritage site. This is the heartland of Merlot grapes, and is known as the vine covered “hill with a thousand chateaus.” This walled city had very steep streets of cobblestone, which were quite slippery going downhill. We saw Collegiate Church, a 12th century cloister, and explored the shops (mostly wine shops), the little back streets and alleyways.
But the real gem here was the underground church. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, this natural cave was converted into a monolithic hermitage. Emilion lived here and became a saint because he performed miracles (healing people). We were not allowed to take pictures inside. The floor was hard-packed dirt, and the air was damp and cool. They still use this church for special functions and initiations – this is a CAVE. Over the years, parts above ground have been added on to it.
I finished my tour soaking up the local color with a $5 diet coke and a cake that is a specialty of the Bordeaux region called “candaleis.” This is a fluted cake, about the size of a shot glass, caramelized on the outside and creamy on the inside. It is a good thing you cannot get these at home because you can’t eat just one. Europeans sure do know how to do pastries.
Michael:
Well, that's it … I am moving to Bordeaux! This is my new favorite city in the world. A beautiful place, 7,000 wineries, mouth-watering food, pretty good weather and every other diversion known to man. What more could you want? Now, all I have to do is get residency, learn French, and double my retirement income so I can afford to live in this very expensive city, but as soon as I do …..
All kidding aside, this is a fabulous place, and I just wrapped up a wonderful and memorable day here. I began by escorting yet another tour. This started with an overview of the city via coach, and then a trip south to Martillac for, yep, another wine tour. Bordeaux is a big city, with about one million people. It is clean, modern, vibrant, colorful and just fun, and to think most of this happened over the last ten years under new municipal supervision.
Our wine tour was to Chateau LaTour Martillac, which is in the Graves district, no more than 15 or so miles south of Bordeaux. We toured the vineyard, including the cellar, and then tasted a white (mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a little Semillon), and then a superb red – Grand Cru Classe De Graves Pessac-Leognan, a 2004. This I wanted more of! It was then back to the ship for lunch, a quick rest, and then on to a self-guided walking tour of Bordeaux.
I must have covered five miles this afternoon, but it was worth it. I walked first to the Place de la Bourse, (a palace) and did so via the brand new and gigantic “Water Mirror,” which is about an acre in size, and emits atomized water, so you are strolling though what looks like a steam bath, but is actually cool. It is a very nice effect. I next passed by one of the two original city gates, and then to Basillique St. Michel. I expected to find an old church but instead found myself in the middle of the Muslim community’s largest shuq. Man, I am, glad it was daytime!
I navigated my way out of this and up to the Place de la Victorie. You know, France has many of these “victory” places, all built in anticipation of celebrating the successful culmination of various wars. However, since France has yet to win a single war, most of them are still in brand new condition. Just kidding (sort of)!! Anyway, this location is notable as it is the start of the longest (1.2 km) pedestrian-only shopping street in all of Europe, and whoa, was it busy. I walked along this street (Rue Saint Catherine) all the way to the Cathedrale in Place Pey-Berland. Now, this one was a church, and it was beautiful. It was built in the 12th century and is comparable to Notre Dame.I was starting to wear out about now, but summoned up the strength to continue on to another Palace, the Palais Rohan, which is now a hotel, and (since it was Saturday) watched about a half dozen outdoor weddings in progress. I was now in the ultra chic and ultra expensive shopping district and continued on Rue Bouffard to the second of the original city gates. From here it was a short walk to the Place des Brands Hommes, a great big shopping mall.
I headed east, back toward the ship -- but the best was yet to come. I found the Place de las Comedie, Bordeaux’s new opera house, which is right across the street from the Regent hotel (yes, the same as the cruise line), which is the city’s finest. My last stop was the Monument aux Girondins which boasts about the most incredible fountain I have seen since Rome. Okay, that was just a few days ago, but it was simply incredible. From here it was back to the ship, and (yeh) cocktail hour!! I am writing this while waiting for Beverly who is escorting a tour to St-Emilion. I don’t know what’s there, but it is on the list of the “1,000 places you must see before you die.”Beverly:
Ach, the French spelling is getting to me. The French pronunciation sounds like they have marbles in the mouth. We are not moving to France. While Bordeaux is indeed a grand city, I got to see something you would never in a million years see – an underground church.
I journeyed to the medieval town of St.-Emilion, which is the REAL old world France, and is UNESCO-classified as a heritage site. This is the heartland of Merlot grapes, and is known as the vine covered “hill with a thousand chateaus.” This walled city had very steep streets of cobblestone, which were quite slippery going downhill. We saw Collegiate Church, a 12th century cloister, and explored the shops (mostly wine shops), the little back streets and alleyways. But the real gem here was the underground church. Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, this natural cave was converted into a monolithic hermitage. Emilion lived here and became a saint because he performed miracles (healing people). We were not allowed to take pictures inside. The floor was hard-packed dirt, and the air was damp and cool. They still use this church for special functions and initiations – this is a CAVE. Over the years, parts above ground have been added on to it.
I finished my tour soaking up the local color with a $5 diet coke and a cake that is a specialty of the Bordeaux region called “candaleis.” This is a fluted cake, about the size of a shot glass, caramelized on the outside and creamy on the inside. It is a good thing you cannot get these at home because you can’t eat just one. Europeans sure do know how to do pastries.
I don't know where the two of you get all your energy and stamina. It absolutely amazes me how much you have done and how much you have seen and then to share your adventures with us. Thanks for letting us enjoy the trip as well, but we don't have to get tired. It just blows my mind to see how far you have traveled and all the different life styles, cities, and cultures you have shared with us. Stay safe and enjoy what adventures you have left on this trip. Looking forward to seeing you when it's all over.
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