Cochin, India

This area of India, the peninsula state of Kerala, is called the “Queen of the Arabian Sea.” It is a major seaport and exporter of teak wood and spices. And it is f***ing hot and muggy. Thankfully, the air conditioning on the bus worked very well.

My tour took us to the old city called Fort Cochin. It is dirty, crowded and nothing has been maintained. The sidewalk’s concrete panels were raised, askew or missing leaving large holes for people to disappear in. People got around on tuk-tuks (3-wheeled motorized carts), motor scooters, or public bus that was standing room only and had no windows.

Our first stop took us to St. Francis Church, the oldest European church in India. Vasco da Gama, the Portuguese explorer, was buried here in 1524. There is a heavy Portuguese influence in the art, architecture and culture.

Next, we stopped at the Chinese dipping nets, the system used to fish from shore. Large nets with weights are lowered into the water; when it is time for the fishermen to raise the nets filled with fish, they use huge poles and levers to raise the nets. This was brought to India by traders from the court of Kublai Khan. For $1 you can have your picture taken pulling the nets up. What an ingenious idea to get paid while others do the work for you. This is also the area that has the fish vendors. There is no ice or refrigeration and it did smell pretty ripe in the heat. There were many small vendor booths selling all kinds of souvenirs (i.e. crap). There were men and children hawking wares, following you and wouldn’t take no for an answer. They were like gnats that were swarming. I almost think they were worse than the ones on the beaches in Mexico.

On a street corner, we had an impromptu show from a snake charmer!! For real. For $1 you could take his picture with the cobras. Now remember my Russian friend, Issac. He is an extremely smart person and is very curious. He offered to sit right next to the snake charmer so we all got our cameras out and were treated to such a sight. There were three cobras; the snake charmer would play the music and open the first basket, then the second, then the third so all of the snakes were dancing at the same time. Issac was very brave and even tried to touch the snakes, but was told it was too dangerous for him to do so. This was the highlight of our tour.

India has no solid waste disposal system so they burn much of their trash. There are small fires smoldering everywhere. We drove by the crematorium and the central laundry facility where there were acres of sheets and towels flapping in the breeze. All the hotels and B&Bs send their linens out to be washed here. The final stop was in Jew Town and included the Dutch Palace (originally built by the Portuguese in 1555 and remodeled by the Dutch in 1663) where we saw some mythological murals in a stifling hot and crowded room; I had to leave because I couldn’t breathe – the air was so oppressive. This “palace” was located right next to a Hindu temple, which was located right next to a Jewish synagogue. Our guide said the major religions of Christianity, Islam and Hindu all got along very well. The synagogue was built in 1568 and is the oldest in the Commonwealth. India had at one time a very large Jewish population, but there are only a few left as most Jews have immigrated to Israel.

Unfortunately, I did not go inside the synagogue or shop at the little shops as I headed back to the air conditioned bus before I died from heat exhaustion. Everyone was dragging fanny as the heat and humidity was so draining. This is the summer season after all, and it lasts for eight months!

While the above was happening, Michael was off escorting a very different tour. He went to the “new” part of town while I was in the “old” part. His first stop was at a Hindu temple, this one dedicated to Shiva, the “Destroyer of Evil.” It was old, filthy, smelly and LOUD! Part of the prayer ritual is to purchase, and then set off huge firecrackers where people congregate. He said it sounded like a war zone. They are always burning something in one of many vessels, and that something is always smelly and dirty. Only the most righteous of the Hindus can enter the most inner most rooms so those will have to remain a mystery.

He then went to two churches – St. Mary’s and St. Francis of Assisi. Both were relatively contemporary, and completely unremarkable, with the exception of both having been visited by Pope John Paul II in 1986. He did witness an engagement ceremony, which was interesting. From here his tour proceeded to the Hotel Taj for refreshments and a visit to a thoroughly forgettable open air (make that open hot air) market. One wasted hour later he gratefully returned to the cool ship for lunch. He was very disappointed with the tour as were many of the other passengers.

Tomorrow is a sea day